by Dr. Lori Verderame
On my YouTube channel, I discuss many makers and manufacturers of valuable costume jewelry. Here’s how to spot valuable and fine pieces of vintage costume jewelry. There are many costume jewelry pieces out there by many different makers from around the globe, but I want you to know which costume jewelry makers, designers, and artisans you should look for and buy for the best return on investment or to add value to your costume jewelry collection. Most people know some of the better known names or popular firms in the realm of costume or junque jewelry such as Monet, Coro, Sarah Coventry, Napier, Marvella, Bogoff, Bluette, Lisner, Renoir, Weiss, Eisenberg, Matisse, Trifari, Hattie Carnegie, Alice Caviness, Kramer, and many more.
There are other costume jewelry designer names that you should know when you are searching for or reselling every type of vintage necklace, bracelet, brooch, pin, earrings, choker, anklet, or ring. Always look for quality from any costume jewelry designer but, don’t miss out on buying these specific costume jewelry makers if you have the chance. I want you to be able to spot their designs at a local yard sale, thrift shop, antique mall, church bazaar, or estate sale.
There are many costume jewelry designers that I focus on during my Youtube channel videos and here on my website, but I like to zero in on some of the makers and manufacturers that may not be as commonly known to everyone. Yet, these costume jewelry makers produce valuable and beautiful costume jewelry pieces and they are readily available in the market now. These are pieces you should be looking for when you are out there treasure hunting in thrift stores, yard sales, estate sales, and even in grandma’s jewelry box.
The costume jewelry designer names that are common are the ones that everyone is searching for online. But, it is those of you who have the inside scoop because you follow me who will cash in when you buy pieces made by these three designers: Bellini by Formart, Jomaz (of Mazer Bros.) and Erwin Pearl of New York. Specifically, these three designers are highlighted in this article so you can look for their styles, their best known or celebrated pieces, their specialty designs, and their characteristic maker’s marks. These are three costume jewelry makers that you should know. At the end of this article, I will tell you about a bonus designer in the costume jewelry realm that you must seek out and add to your collection, too.
Three of the Top Designers
The three marvelous, innovative, and valuable costume jewelry designs come from designers that you should known and look for in the market: Bellini, Erwin, and Jomaz. While they may not have the following of Ben Amun or Trifari, these designers are helping online resellers and collectors cash in on exceptional pieces of costume jewelry. When it comes to quality materials, metals, innovative designs, inset crystals and faux gemstones, and stylish sets, these are the names you’ve got to know. Commit them to memory and learn their marks. Learn what to look for and how to spot their lovely necklaces, bracelets, brooches, and more.
Look for high quality pieces and good construction and contrasting materials in every piece of costume jewelry that you buy. Don’t forget to look for an abundance of color, color, and more color in the costume jewelry designer pieces by these special makers. Objects of adornment, that is jewelry, by these makers will demonstrate good quality materials and fashionable designs. These are the designers that have had a strong impact on the online costume jewelry market.
Bellini by Formart
There are many costume jewelry design firms with the Bellini name. I am concentrating on one firm in particular here. The New York costume jewelry design firm of Bellini by Formart was founded in the 1980s by Sheung Mei Liuin. Bellini by Formart made costume jewelry of high quality in impressive designs. Bellini by Formart is known for glass and crystal cabochons set into gold toned metal of costume jewelry. Crystals are used to resemble diamonds and glass or rhinestone cabochons are often part of the design scheme, too. The crystals are designed to mimic high end stones or precious gemstones such as carnelian, agate, pearls, malachite, diamonds, etc. These elements are added to classic designs of necklaces, brooches, earrings, pins, etc. Fanciful dangling earrings and well made costume jewelry necklaces are pieces to look for by Bellini by Formart.
The Bellini by Formart mark is easy to spot. The mark is often found on an oval cartouche attached to the back of each of the firm’s pieces. The maker’s mark for Bellini by Formart is straightforward and highly recognizable as BELLINI BY FORMART. The maker’s mark is found in upper case block letters on the firm’s costume jewelry items.
Erwin Pearl
Another costume jewelry maker to buy for value and resale is Erwin Pearl. Pearl was an Austrian native who established an active business in New York called Erwin Pearl. Erwin Pearl founded the company that bears his name in 1957. Pearl spent his youth as a jeweler and diamond cutter. In addition to prominent clients from all over the world and producing exquisite examples of fine jewelry (and many jewelry trademarks) using precious metals and diamonds and precious stones, Erwin Pearl started manufacturing costume jewelry in 1970. Pearl’s expertise making high quality fine jewelry pieces helped to inform his designs in the costume jewelry arena.
What to look when seeking out Erwin Pearl pieces is rather easy. When it comes to Erwin Pearl costume jewelry pieces, look for one of the best examples of costume jewelry design and execution. Look for gold tone metal decorated with exceptionally applied and painted enamel work, high quality set crystals, 22 karat gold plated steel chains, faceted-cut colorful glass jewelry pieces that are prong set to resemble gemstones, and so much more. Edwin Pearl designed costume jewelry pieces like oversized chain link necklaces, woven rope style bracelets in gold plate, and other pieces. My favorite Erwin Pearl design was his gold school of fish brooch with blue crystal eyes. Love it!
Many marks and collections
Erwin Pearl’s costume jewelry designs used various maker’s marks. The firm used the PEP mark, the Erwin Pearl mark, and the E. Pearl mark from the 1970s to the 1990s. The manufacturer also produced a number of lovely trademark designs that set his work apart from the rest.
Some of Erwin Pearl’s trademarked designs include:
Bead Street, Bettina, Everyone Needs A Hug, Fashion*Lite, Feather Touch, Forever Gold, Forever Silver, Garden of Love, Golden Comfort, Hoop Eze, Hugs, Hip Hugs, Inklings, KC, Look of Gold, Lucky Look of Diamonds, Marcel Duval, Mercedes Jones, Mini Jewels, Mystery Necklace By Erwin Pearl, Precious Marriage, Purely Silver, Sheffield Gold, Snake Skin, The Look of Silver, Van Gogh Collection, and White House Collection among others.
Look for any of these names and jewelry designer lines or collections at your favorite costume jewelry auction lot, thrift store, or estate sale and you’ll be getting something special.
Jomaz
Jomaz is a jewelry brand that was established in New York, NY in 1927 by brothers Joseph and Louis Mazer and continued to make pieces through much of the 20th Century, closing its doors in 1981. Mazer Bros. changed to Jomaz over time but it is how this costume jewelry company got started that is of interest to collectors. While the famous Mazer Bros. design firm made costume jewelry until 1977 without Joseph Mazer who left the company to work alone. The Joseph J. Mazer & Co. firm produced pieces under the Joseph Mazer or Jomaz name until 1981.
Using various metals, faux pearls, Austrian rock crystals, rhinestones, and great designs, Mazer Bros. produced affordable copies of high-end jewelry pieces for decades. Figural pieces were commonplace and often these pieces were enhanced with faux pearls, crystals, or fine hand painted enamel work such as tiger pins with hand painted gold plated bodies and set rhinestones, fish brooches with faux set stones, floral pendants with rhinestones and repeating patterned faux pearls for necklaces or charm bracelets, etc. The company used gold plating, sterling silver, and other design attributes to make earrings, necklaces, pins, tiara style accent pieces and other items for the discriminating client or costume jewelry collector. The Jomaz mark is easy to spot and has been a mainstay in the arena of costume jewelry for decades.
Do you know whose designs you are missing in your jewelry box or online shop? Do you recognize the chic, beautiful and valuable designer names for costume jewelry? Learn which costume jewelry designer pieces by Bellini, Erwin Pearl, and others that are must-haves in your collection or online costume jewelry or vintage jewelry store.
Bonus Costume Jewelry Designer
If those three designers weren’t enough, here comes another costume jewelry designer to buy when you can. Don’t miss this bonus costume jewelry designer whose pieces you should scoop up if given the chance.
Ricarde of Hollywood
Part of the appeal of the early 20th Century, circa 1930s-1950s, movies was the movie stars’ costumes and their accent jewelry pieces and accessories. Richard Baxt founded Hollywood Jewelry Products Inc. in 1939. His costume jewelry company became known as Ricarde of Hollywood. Ricarde of Hollywood made fine quality reproductions of high end jewelry based on designs by the likes of Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, and others. These pieces of costume jewelry were perfect for American cinema and its fans. The firm made costume jewelry for major screen icons like Bette Davis, Hedy Lamarr, and Joan Crawford. Period costume jewelry pieces for movies like the Civil War masterpiece Gone with the Wind became the trademark of Ricarde of Hollywood. The pieces are rare and highly sought after with today’s collectors.
Not to be confused with Elzac of Hollywood or Joseff of Hollywood, Richarde of Hollywood produced pieces that would make any starlet or movie star blush. Beautiful designs that resembled high end jewelry pieces were commonplace for the design firm. Richarde of Hollywood is known for intricate designs in various metals with delicately set faux stones like turquoise, pearls, and crystals. Chains contrasting with discs or beads were also of note when Ricarde of Hollywood designed for the big screen.
Watch videos on my YouTube channel where I reveal more costume jewelry makers. I can appraise your costume jewelry from photos or you can show me your costume jewelry during a video call.
